3D Printing?

Can you change the size?
There are models on Thingyverse for 1/100 and 1/56 scale.

 

Yes to changing the size and might to can you print it.

You can scale up or down the stl file as it is dimensionless but you do need to take into account the capability of your printer - some details/features can become sources of print failures.

A Step file contains dimensions but again the resolution/capability of printer comes into play.

Ross

 

ok, so I need a reasonable quality printer

 

There is a lot to consider before you make your investment.
Probably a good idea to go with a popular brand with a very active forum of users. 3D printing can be very frustrating, so you need a lot of patience and quite a bit of support from other users.

What do you intend to print, and what do you want to do with your finished prints?

...oh, did I mention that you need a lot of patience?

 

Model bits, mostly. 1/35 and 00 railway.
A few bits for the car, maybe a Webley (for another project).
Patience....... are they heavy and small enough to fit through a window?

 

I may have already said this, but don't expect a "plug 'n play" experience. You can't just push filament and an .stl file in one end and expect to always get a perfect object out of its backside. You have to know how to set the machine up and keep it running in tip-top condition, and also keep your filament dry. So (and I think von Poop will agree with this) you have to be prepared to invest a lot of hours in learning about the machine and the process.

I'm not trying to put you off. There's a good chance that you will love it, especially if you are a bit of a 'handy geezer'.

PLA is probably the easiest material to work with, but If you need to make something that is relatively strong and will last a few years, you will probably need to make it using ABS. This may affect your selection of machine.

Oh, and carefully measure the size of your largest upstairs window and ensure your proposed machine is at least 25mm smaller in all dimensions!

Happy printing.

 

Our cabinet maker at work (many years ago) made one of those out of 1 piece of wood.

 

My advise is to use a resin printer to print 1/35 and OO railway parts you will get better results in detail than using a filament printer.

 

Will have to wait for Christmas.
I would really like some 1/35 scale para or AFV helmets, 3.7" AA and 6" ammo boxes.
These are to stow some Recce vehicles.

 

So I think it depends on whether you want to play with the technology or you are only/mainly interested in the end results.

There must be lots of people out there who would print objects for you for a small fee, and probably to a higher standard than you would be able to achieve in the first few months of swearing at your new machine!

 

I'm sure that is why in the early days they were named replicators - not for the parts but that once you had one machine you gained another and another to use different print material stocks.

Most of the stuff I do now is pattern making for metal sand casting - and mould making with the filament printer so I can resin cast with the wide range of engineering resin (how I make durable parts for the 1:1 scale weapons

Great retailer - a few miles from me - always ready to chat about your application and make recommendations on materials
https://www.benam.co.uk/products

Mould Making and Casting Instructional Videos | Bentley Advanced Materials

Seminars have restarted again - great value day
Seminar Dates

Adam this mag is well worth a read for all additive machines - hobby and engineering
TCT Magazine | Additive Manufacturing & 3D Printing Intelligence | News, Interviews, Features | Additive Manufacturing | Product Development Technology

What little resin printing I do is outsourced to a print hub and I supply the STL or STEP. At the moment the volume I do does not justify the cost of a printer/cleaning/UV station setup but the dabbling in metal casting is making use of SLS Lost Wax attractive.
https://www.shapeways.com/3d-print-material-technology/wax-casting

Ross

 

Marketing should push the regression to teenage years - used to be constant tinkering and rebuild of motorbike engines on kitchen table rather than riding it - now you can relive it all by rebuilding your 3d FDM printer instead of printing!

Suspect you cooked the nozzle - only had one 0.4mm nozzle wear out (blocked plenty with poor heat break maintenance) and that was on a machine I was printing glow in the dark filament on - the embedded particles in the filament are the abrasive culprit, same goes for carbon stuff.

But I also notice you are sufficiently hooked to upgrade on rebuild rather get back to previous status quo.

I've been running E3D Revo 6 heater and nozzle system to make changing nozzles and diam less stress.

Quite liking it - most recent print job was for large build vase mode - sliced for 0.4mm nozzle estimated print time 32 hrs ish - bugger that - slice for 0.6mm nozzle 12hrs. Nozzle change time about 3 mins, including a precautionary check on first layer to see if offset changed - it had not.

Ross

 

I'm a bit surprised its lasted so long.



Full story: Captain Bodgit: 3D Printing: time to replace the nozzle?