First model for many years. Italeri JS 2. NOW FINISHED

Discussion in 'Modelling' started by Owen, Mar 25, 2007.

  1. Owen

    Owen -- --- -.. MOD

    Well I've just been up to Hobbycraft and got this.
    It contains two kits, a simple one and the more detailed one, guess which I'll be making first.
    [​IMG]


    They only do Humbrol Enamels there so what is the best green to get for Soviet armour?
    Just printing a colour chart of for them.
    Want to keep things simple until I really get back into it all.
     
  2. Za Rodinu

    Za Rodinu Hot air manufacturer

    Well I've just been up to Hobbycraft and got this.
    It contains two kits, a simple one and the more detailed one, guess which I'll be making first.

    Ooooh, so that's why they called it the JS-2.
     
  3. Owen

    Owen -- --- -.. MOD

    Yes, maybe, but which Humbrol green is nearest the green on Soviet tanks?
     
  4. von Poop

    von Poop Adaministrator Admin

    Whichever looks about right?....

    There are some pictures of JS2's out there in funky camo schemes at wars end, look more like a German approach to 3-colour camo.
     
  5. Owen

    Owen -- --- -.. MOD

    Yeah,that 3 tone camo, they show that on the box as 4th Guards tank regiment , Lvov, Summer 1944.( I think that should be 4th Guards Tank ARMY)
    Was "Soviet" green like dark bronze-green, a lighter forest green, like US olive drab or a mix ?
    Sorry to sound so dim but it's my turn to ask simple questions now.

    Aha , I'll look here Weapon. Camouflage and marking , VP poted this on my IS 2 thread.
     
  6. Za Rodinu

    Za Rodinu Hot air manufacturer

    Yes, maybe, but which Humbrol green is nearest the green on Soviet tanks?

    Dunno, go for a can which most approaches your own post:
    [​IMG]

    Soviet tanks were painted Green, no specific match as production varied wildly. I usually go for a Forest Green with some yellow and light grey added to cut down the too neat original look. I forget the exact proportions I use so my next model will be a completely realistic different hue.
     
  7. von Poop

    von Poop Adaministrator Admin

    Whatever you go for Owen (and as Za say's, for Soviet gear you really can go with whatever looks right) remember to lighten it slightly after you've got the shade you want, best tip I was ever given for 1/72nd stuff, really improves things.
     
  8. Owen

    Owen -- --- -.. MOD

    Oh dear, things have gone wrong already.
    The basic model had a floorless turret, which from the front I could see a huge gapping hole, so last night I filled the turret up with filler so make it solid.
    In the old days when I used nothing but Milliput that was no problem.
    Looking at the turret this morning, oh dear.
    Just read the pack of the Humbrol Model Filler, it says,
    The polystyrene may be excessively attacked if too much is applied at once.

    The turret plastic has melted.
    How bloomin daft is that, make a model filler that melts plastic?
    Must get some Milliput again soon.

    Good job this was the simple model it happened to.

    Something else I noticed from when I used to make models, the SMELL.
    Thinners never stank like that, glue smells worse than ever and that filler stinks like Plastic Padding I used on my old Morris Marina.
     

    Attached Files:

  9. Za Rodinu

    Za Rodinu Hot air manufacturer

    R T F M!
     
  10. Owen

    Owen -- --- -.. MOD

    R T F M!
    Oh very funny.
    The stuff was better in my day.
     
  11. von Poop

    von Poop Adaministrator Admin

    I see you've worked on an accurate recreation of the intense fire testing of an IS2 turret... very good.

    The stuff was better in my day.
    ...and hammers were lighter, and stairs were shorter, and it were somehow easier to see things, and has anyone noticed the wind's getting stronger?

    Poor old dear.
    (They still make miliiput lovey...)

    I bet that Humbrol filler hasn't changed formula since 1965 save for 1 or 2 now naughty cancer-chemicals being substituted.
     
  12. Owen

    Owen -- --- -.. MOD

    I know they still do Milliput, used it to seal toliet in old house.
    First time I'd ever used it for anything other than model making.

    Now started real model, just doing tracks, arghhh!
    Last tank ever, back to figures after this.
     
  13. von Poop

    von Poop Adaministrator Admin

    Now started real model, just doing tracks, arghhh!
    :lol:
    That would be 'link and length' ones then?
    Fiddly aren't they? ;)
     
  14. Owen

    Owen -- --- -.. MOD

    Just done one side.
    Fiddly, yes, especially when I binned my very fine tweezers about 13 years ago thinking I'd never ever need them again.
    The enamels are peeing me off now, stirred the paint very well, but tracks on the simple model are still tacky.
    Never had that problem with acrylics.
    I think this is going to develop into a very funny thread for everyone else at my expense.
     
  15. Gerard

    Gerard Seelow/Prora

    Stick with it Owen, I remember my best times doing models were with 1/76 Matchbox Tank Models!
     
  16. Za Rodinu

    Za Rodinu Hot air manufacturer

    Hang on there, you're just the spearhead of a relearning process!

    You'll get your own back at me if and when I do decide to turn my stash of old boxes into something else :lol:
     
  17. Owen

    Owen -- --- -.. MOD

    Here is the simple model ready to paint, melted turret and all.
     

    Attached Files:

  18. kfz

    kfz Very Senior Member

    Oh dear, things have gone wrong already.
    The basic model had a floorless turret, which from the front I could see a huge gapping hole, so last night I filled the turret up with filler so make it solid.
    In the old days when I used nothing but Milliput that was no problem.
    Looking at the turret this morning, oh dear.
    Just read the pack of the Humbrol Model Filler, it says,

    The turret plastic has melted.
    How bloomin daft is that, make a model filler that melts plastic?
    Must get some Milliput again soon.

    Good job this was the simple model it happened to.

    Something else I noticed from when I used to make models, the SMELL.
    Thinners never stank like that, glue smells worse than ever and that filler stinks like Plastic Padding I used on my old Morris Marina.


    Got a good challange to put that right. The rear is propably ok I would fill and sand smooth. dont use a file use a bit of wetndry.

    The top is gonna be hard without destroying that detail. I'd carefully fill and use a peice of folded wetndry to smooth and a pokey thing to pick out the bits you dont want in the detail.

    Kev
     
  19. Owen

    Owen -- --- -.. MOD

    Unfortunately Kev, it got worse. It carried on melting as I tried to fix it.
    Couldn't even gouge the filler out.
    Here is the damage.
    Lessons to be learnt,
    as Za says "Read the f*****g manual."
    Don't use Humbrol filler in big dollops, go and buy my old friend Milliput.
    Stick to figures.
     

    Attached Files:

  20. kfz

    kfz Very Senior Member

    I like Humbrol 116 as my Ivan green.

    BTW how was the kit? Igetting to really like the Italeri stuff, dead cheap and some of them are really good.

    A tip for the seperate linked track is dont put the drive sprocket on till you do the tracxk. I allways find that the sprocxket teeth will be in the wrong postion. Do the road wheels and the idler and then do the bottom run od track. When its time to do the slopy up bits of track then postion to sprocket so the teeth are correct. I always forget. I recently did the Fujami 76 JS2, went together lovely, quite happy with it. Boring colours though.

    Kev
     

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